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Common Questions about Fabric and Measuring

What does Super 100, 110, 120 and 150 mean?
Super 100's, 110's, 120's, 150's: Designates the fineness of a wool fiber. The higher the number; the finer the fiber. The cost also goes up with the number since the product is less likely to wrinkle because of the tightness of the weave. Most well known designers do not typically label the wool fiber, but you can be assured their quality items are 100's or above.

What is Virgin Wool?
Virgin wool is a silkier feel because it is the new wool, not used with any recycled wool.

What does Besom, Welt and Quarter pockets mean?
Welt/Quarter Pockets vs. Besom: Welt or Quarter pockets have been the traditional pockets on slacks for a very long time. They are designed to hold your hand inside the pocket because they are cut at an angle. Besom pockets are a fairly new tradition in pockets on slacks and suit hip pockets. They are typically slits where the material from both sides meets and closes without overlapping. They are meant to look less visible and more as a part of the overall silhouette. "Flap" pockets are on sport coats and suit jackets at the hip. They offer a "flap" over the pocket.

What does "Unfinish" or "Uncut" Hems mean on slacks?
Higher quality slacks come without the hems sewn. Having a nice pair of slacks means having them fit properly with the correct inseam. The hems should be finished with an experienced tailor while wearing the shoes you would typically wear with the slacks. This will give the tailor your perfect inseam and make your slacks fit you properly.

Should I dry-clean all wool products?
Yes, anything consisting of wool should be dry cleaned only. Wool will shrink to unbelievably small size and should never launder.

How to Measure Yourself to Determine Size?
Suit/sport coat Size: Your chest size is typically the measurement of a suit. For example: A 44 means your chest is 44 inches or thereabouts. PLEASE NOTE: If your waistline is bigger than your chest, you should substitute your waist measurement for your chest measurement. If not, your coat will not button.

How to measure your chest?
Take a tape measure and place it under your arms completely around your body with your arms to your side (don't hold your breath), measure the biggest part of your chest. This will determine the size of your chest and the size of the coat you need. You can always go a size or so bigger in the coat. A European size is measured in centimeters. But you can add 10 to your chest size to determine the European size without having to measure in centimeters.

Should I order LONG, REGULAR, SHORT or X-LONG?
A man's height usually determines which suit/sport coat fits the best. A rule of thumb is typically someone over 6 feet or 6'1" tall, you will need a LONG, taller than 6' 5" is usually an X-Long. If you are shorter than 5'9", then you will probably need a short.